My Road Bike

I get a lot of questions about my road bike, so here is a little information about it.

Frame Material: True Temper, OX Platinum OS; American Made cycling specific tubing. It's a top of the line, light weight, well tuned tubeset.

 

I also used Henry James, stainless steel dropouts instead of  steel so they will not rust.

FORK: Kestral, Carbon (Aluminum Steerer)
I could have built a steel fork, but I got this fork brand new for $45. It's lighter than steel, and I like the road dampening properties of carbon fiber. It's shape compliments the flow of the rest of the bike, and most important has a 43mm rake. How convenient?

CRANKSET: Shimano, Dura Ace 7800 (53t x 39t, 175mm)

Since I ride/race BMX, CycloCross, Mountain Bikes (MTB) with 175m cranks it only makes sense that my road bike also uses the same to maintain the same pedal circle. I think if I rode just a road bike, I'd use 170mm, but I've been using 175mm for over the last 20 years, I'm well used to them.

BOTTOM BRACKET: Shimano, Dura Ace 9000
The old bottom bracket bearings were worn out, so rather than try to find a 7800, or 6700 bottom bracket I replaced with the new 9000. They fit and now feature  new low drag seals.

PEDALS: Shimano, PD-M979

Yes they are mountain bike pedals (SPD), not a road pedals. like I said I also ride BMX, Cyclocross, and Mountain Bikes that use the MTB format. So why pay $350 for another pair of shoes to break in. (I use Sidi, Dominator cycling shoes, they are leather and once broke in fit like a glove. They are over 10 years old because that's what you get when you buy quality). The PD-M979 are double sided so they are easy to get into, give excellent ground clearance. Some might say that the smaller platform tends to create "Hot Spots" on your feet. I can see how the bigger platform would displace pressure, but isn't it funny how those Randoneer riders who ride 300 mile plus ride tend to ride the SPD format. Before there were XTR pedals on the market, there were the PD-M979 pedals. Light weight, smooth, and reliable, I've had 2 sets for over 15 years and the bearings still feel fine, and the clipless mechanism still works like new.

SHIFTERS/BRAKE LEVERS: Shimano, Dura Ace 7800 STI (10 Speed)
Arguably the best shifters of all time, or at least Shimano's best. The 7800 model was the last generation the derailleur cable was not routed under the     bar tape and was allowed to slide through the housing along a long smooth arc. When the shift cables are routed under the bar tape instead you have 2 tight bends instead of 1 that don't allow the cables to slide as well. To minimize the effects Shimano did come out with most expensive specially coated cables and lined housing that needs regular replacement.

FRONT DERAILLEUR: Shimano, Dura Ace 7800
REAR DERAILLEUR: Shimano, Dura Ace 7800

CASSETTE: SRAM, 1070 (12,13,14,15,16,17,19,21,23,25)
To replace a Dura-Ace cassette is expensive. So I consider the Ultegra cassette is just as functional, weights just 50 grams more, and is $100 less. The SRAM is   compatible with the Shimano system and I was interested with the performance. It cost about the same, weights about the same, and performs about the same.

Unlike a lot of people I got a cassette with the 12 as the smallest cog, because do you really need an 11? In the late 80's/90's I used to ride in Cat-2 races with freewheels that had a 13 as the smallest cog, and never thought "Gee I need a 12". If I could I'd swap the 12 for a more functional 18. No doubt I'd use the 18 more than a 12.

CHAIN: KMC, 10speed SL
In my experience KMC makes the best functioning chains right now. Shimano makes a great functioning chain, I mean after all who better than the people that engineered the group (Dura Ace 7800). I just don't like having to replace and break off a pin if I want to take the chain off. (To be honest I really never take   a chain off other than to replace it). SRAM chain use their "Power Link" to make taking the chain off/on easy, but they don't function as well as Shimano, or   KMC...even on their own cassette. I will say the difference is pretty much undistinguishable. I've also found the KMC chains last longer than Shimano, or SRAM. I can't speak for Whipperman but it's on my list of chains to try.
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BRAKE SET: Shimano, Dura Ace 7800

I can lock up the back wheel with the rear, and I could probably flip myself over the front with the front break if I squeezed tight enough. Light weight and reliable. What more do you need? I use KoolStop Salmon pads for wet. They are softer and wear faster than regular pads, but perform better. The lead edge is arched to remove water before it hits the pad, but it also clears it of dust of better performance. Some might say they are "Graby". I don't find that.

HEADSET: Chris King 1-1/8" NoThreadSet
 Made in the USA and I can't think of a better more reliable headset. I think there are some that are equal, but I found this one first and the price was right.

STEM: Thomson, Elite (120mm x 26.0mm x -10 degree)
Made in the USA and I can't think of a better more reliable Stem a Thomson. I'm a big fan of the no bolt/clamp system for the fork steerer. Enough so I     stuck with the old 26.0mm pardigm for handlebars. I like the looks and no pinch bolts to bang your knees on. There are lighter stem out there, but the stem & handlebars are a bad, if not worst place for failure.

HANDLEBAR: Ritchey, Pro (44mm x 26.0mm)
I used to ride 42cm, but I find I like the increased width at the top better. I could have gotten the lighter WCS model, but I find the Pro's to have less flex, and I said above. The stem & handlebars are a bad, if not worst place for failure. Lighter, more expensive does not always mean better.

Bar End Caps: Velox
Every now and then you bang you knee on the end of your handlebars. These are made of rubber, and the screw mechanism prevents them from falling out. The best caps ever made.

TAPE/GRIP: Zipp, Cyclocross Tape
More padded than regular tape, and has a nice rubbery grip. I'll never go back to Cork Tape again...if I don't have to.

SADDLE: Fizik, Arione (Carbon Rails)
After many years, and many saddles I like this saddle's shape the most. It's flat on top, where a lot of saddles are rounded, or one of those with the cutout. Saddles are a personal preference, and comfort should dictate which saddle you use and not weight.

SEAT POST: Thomson, Elite (27.2mm x 250mm, Straight)
Made in the USA and I can't think of a better more reliable seat post than a Thomson. It's a straight post because the frame is designed with a slack seat tube angle, so the straight post will provide enough setback.

WHEELSET: Shimano, Ultegra WH-6700
Since $2000-$3000 for a nice wheelset has not been in the budget for a while. I went with the Ultegra WH-6700. At the time they were there and the price was right. They are also tubeless compatible with interests me, but I have yet to mess with that. So far these wheels have served me well. They went out of true once   last year, but have remained straight since, and I haven't broken a spoke, and are stiff and solid. They also have a wider rim to give the tire greater air   volume for a smoother ride and less chance for pinch-flats. I was skepical at first, so much after buying them I put them in my closest for over a year without   using them. I have to say I've been impressed with the performance.

TIRES: Vittoria, Open Corsa CX (700c x 23mm)
I was using 25mm Continental, Gatorskins to compliment the wider rims. The Gatorskins are a thicker training tire of sorts, but none-the-less I got a hole torn in one of them and had to switch tires. I had some Vittoria, 23mm Open Corsa CX tires laying around, so I put them on. What can you say about the Vittoria, Open Corsa CX? It's one of the best performing tires ever made. It's supple ride with low rolling resistance. I would like to get a set in 25mm. The only tire closer would be the Continental 4000s.

WEIGHT: It weighs what it weighs
I'm not sure about performance gains from lighter parts are all they are cracked up to be. I suspect I could make the bicycle 1Lbs. or 2 Lbs. lighter, but at what cost, and for what? You can talk about performance gains going from a 20Lbs bike to a 18Lbs bike (10%), but in the equation they always leave out the most important component the rider. What does the rider weight? the rider doesn't just propel the bicycle weight alone. A 180lbs. rider plus a 20Lbs. bike is 200Lbs now the 20bs weight saving that was 10% now becomes 1%.